Peggy’s Cove and Lunenberg
Ok, so let’s just get it out of the way right now:
Can’t go to Peggy’s Cove without taking a picture of the lighthouse, right?
Actually, the lighthouse was, to me, one of the less interesting things around. Peggy’s Cove is a very picturesque fishing village, and I probably could have spent all day there, wandering through it slowly (it’s very small, just a couple of streets), taking pictures, checking out the local shops, and so on.
Besides the town itself, I was fascinated by the rocky shore that the Lighthouse is on. I spent more time wandering around and admiring the rocks than I did actually paying attention to the lighthouse — in fact, I never walked up to the lighthouse itself.
Anyway, very nice place, and worth the drive. It felt like a little fishing village, and was actually the only time so far that we’ve really gotten any sort of view of the ocean. Most of the time it’s been little bays and harbours that you can see across. Even here it wasn’t that vast and wide open — you get a better view of endless water from, say, Grand Beach — but it was something.
The other thing Peggy’s Cove had was old people. I counted at least 10 tour buses there simultaneously, and they all seemed to serve the 55+ crowd. Pamela and I were struggling to get decent pictures without random strangers all over the place. I did spend a few minutes chatting with a nice woman from Pennsylvania, though.
When we were done, Pamela and Mom bought some prints from a local artist, and we headed off to Lunenberg.
This is a medium-sized town that is fairly tourist-oriented. There’s a nice waterfront to walk along, with the harbour and a bunch of restaurants, and a couple of streets of shops and pubs. I ended up buying a print from a shop called “Out Of Hand”, which sold all sorts of rather funky folk art, and Dad picked up a CD of traditional Nova Scotia songs put out by a local high school choir.
One thing we’ve noticed about the architecture around here: The houses tend to be painted in these solid colours that you’d never get away with in, say, Winnipeg. The photo above is an extreme example, but we’ve seen houses painted just about every colour you could imagine. Pink? Sure, no problem. Royal blue, from the shingles all the way to the window trim? Sure, why not? Purple, orange, yellow, red…we’ve seen it all. I don’t know if it’s the surroundings, or the building style, or what, but
colours that would look ridiculous elsewhere seem to work fine here.
Lunenberg does have one major claim to fame: It’s the home of the Bluenose, and its successor, the Bluenose II, built according to the same plans, still makes its home there.
They take tourists out for cruises on it. We got to wander around the decks for a while, and then later on they set sail, except they didn’t, because it turns out it drives out of the harbour with a motor, and presumably raises its sails later on. Rather disappointing.
Anyway, after Lunenberg, which is west of Halifax, we turned around and drove to New Glasgow, which is northeast of Halifax. This is sort of a stopping point on our way to Cape Breton Island. We made pretty good time and got here in time for supper, so of course we didn’t have any (and just ate whatever we had in the hotel room). We rented movies from the free video-rental machine (Mom and Dad: What Happens In Vegas. Me and Pamela: Kung Fu Panda.), and then had a massive stress attack over trip planning.
It turns out that this whole “make it up as you go along” approach to the trip was a bad idea, because now we keep having to figure out “Where are we going tomorrow? Where are we sleeping?” After a great deal of wringing of hands and poring over of maps, we’ve (*ahem* I’ve) roughed out an itinerary for the rest of the trip (in terms of what cities/towns we expect to be in and which highways we expect to drive), found a hotel for tomorrow night, and tentatively booked a hotel for Saturday night (this booking may yet change). There were a lot of competing factors, and compromises were made, but at least we know, more or less, what we’re doing now.
The whole planning aspect took probably an hour and a half of time, aged us three years apiece, and for some reason had to happen right in the middle of the climax of the movie that Pamela and I were watching, deadening the dramatic impact completely. But, it’s done now, and hopefully it’ll be a little smoother from here on out…